Last updated on July 11th, 2024 at 04:25 pm
Once the sardine capital of France, Douarnenez has reinvented itself into a popular tourist destination while managing to preserve its Breton character.
Visitors can explore colourful quays lined with fishing boats, sample fresh seafood at local markets, and discover art galleries tucked away in the narrow streets.
Where is Douarnenez?
Douarnenez is located on Brittany’s Atlantic coast, with a natural harbour that helped its development as a fishing port.
The port is in the department of Finistère, around 25 kilometres (16 miles) northwest of Quimper, the closest major city.
How to get to Douarnenez
Nearest airport to Douarnenez
The nearest airport to Douarnenez is Brest Bretagne Airport, which is situated 45 miles to the north of the town. It offers domestic destinations within France and international flights to airports such as Dublin and Rome. (Flights to the UK are available with a connection at Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport.)
Distances
Douarnenez to Brest Bretagne Airport: 45 miles (72 kilometres)
Douarnenez to Rennes Bretagne Airport: 145 miles (234 kilometres)
Douarnenez to Nantes Atlantique Airport: 159 miles (256 kilometres)
The town is about a six-and-a-half hour drive from Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport, for those arriving on long-haul flights.
(Note that some websites may list flights to the airport at Quimper, but at the time of writing there are no scheduled flights into this destination.)
Rail travel
There is no direct train service to Douarnenez. The nearest train station is in Quimper, about 17 miles (26 kilometres) away. There is an irregular bus service which takes around three quarters of an hour and mainly serves commuter times.
Driving to Douarnenez
The easiest way to get to Douarnenez by car is also via Quimper. This is on the N165 Route Nationale which runs between Brest in the north and Nantes to the southeast. There is a connection from this route eastwards to Rennes on the N164. If you are planning on driving from Paris, the journey takes around six hours.
History of Douarnenez
The earliest written history of Douarnenez dates back to around 1118, when the Island of St Tutuarn (later renamed Tristan Island) was donated to the Abbey of Marmoutier. A priory was subsequently built on the island.
The fishing history of Douarnenez goes back at least to Gallo-Roman times, when archaeological evidence shows fish were salted along the cliffs of Plomarc’h.
In the late 18th century, sardine fishing became the driving economic force for the area. By the early 20th century, Douarnenez was Brittany’s largest sardine fishing port, housing over 800 boats. Sardine fishing was the lifeblood of the town, with almost a third of its population working at sea. This led to the development of numerous canning factories, which played an important role in the town’s economy.
The canning industry’s success in Douarnenez owes much to the innovations of Nicolas Appert. Appert’s invention of airtight food preservation revolutionised food processing and led to him becoming known as the father of canning. For Douarnenez, the technique allowed for the long-term storage and export of sardines, which then became a staple food around the world.
Douarnenez is also associated with Breton folklore, including the legend of the sunken city of Ys which is believed to lie beneath Douarnenez Bay. It’s also linked to the Arthurian legend of Tristan and Iseult, although this was more adopted by the town because of Tristan Island just off the coast than there being any real connection to the story.
The historic port of Douarnenez and the scenic attractions of Tristan Island and the Douarnenez Bay have attracted poets, painters, photographers and ceramic artists since the 1800s. Colonies of artists from major cultural centres such as Paris settled here in the 1870s, helping to create a flourishing artistic environment.
What’s Douarnenez known for?
- Fishing port with a rich maritime history
- Beautiful beaches and coastal scenery
- Tasty seafood, especially sardines
- Annual summer sailing festival
Top things to do in Douarnenez
1. Stroll around the charming port
The old port area is delightful for wandering, with its former fishermen’s houses and workshops. Colourful fishing boats bob in the harbour as seagulls circle overhead. Pop into the little shops and cafes lining the quays.
2. Hit the beaches
Douarnenez boasts several lovely beaches. The main Plage des Sables Blancs offers golden sand and calm waters. For surfing, head to Plage du Ris with its views across to the old port of Rosmeur.
3. Visit Port-Musée
This maritime museum showcases Douarnenez’s fishing heritage. It is located in a former cannery in the Port-Rhu area. The building holds 2800m² of exhibits, while outside on the dock visitors can climb aboard historic boats and learn about local seafaring traditions.
4. Try the seafood and butter cakes
Being a fishing port, Douarnenez is all about fresh seafood. Don’t miss trying the local sardines and other catches of the day.
Or, if your tooth is a little sweeter, the local kouign-amann (literally ‘butter cake’ in Breton) is a pastry which is crispy on the outside but when you bite into it you discover the soft centre.
5. Attend a festival
If you visit in July, catch the lively Temps Fête maritime festival with tall ships, music and plenty of local delicacies.
Tristan Island (Île Tristan)
Tristan Island, known in French as Île Tristan, is a small tidal island located just off the coast of Douarnenez. It sits in the Pouldavid Estuary at the mouth of the port and is only about 450m long and 250m wide.
The island can be visited on foot two or three times a month when the tides are low enough to reveal a causeway. Otherwise visitors can take a short boat trip across the harbour. Times for the island ‘open days’ and guided tours are available from the local tourist office.
Île Tristan is thought to have given its name to the town of Douar-Anenez, the “land of the island”. Traces of habitation have been found here from the Gallo-Roman era and, over the centuries, the island has been used as a religious retreat, a pirate’s hideaway, a sardine cannery and, now, as the headquarters of the Parc Naturel Marin d’Iroise.
The Iroise Marine Natural Park was created in 2007 to protect the seas and the islands off the western Atlantic coast of Brittany.
Douarnenez Tourist Office
The tourist office in Bénodet is located on the Place du 8 Mai, near the main beach. It’s open year-round, with extended hours during the summer season.
Staff can provide information on local attractions, boat trips, accommodation, and upcoming events.
Douarnenez Information
Douarnenez Tourisme: douarnenez-tourisme.co.uk
Brittany Tourism – Douarnenez: www.brittanytourism.com
Port Musée: www.port-musee.org
